Overwintering Water Lettuce and Water Hyacinths

Lincoln City, OR(Zone 9a)

I have been asked to write about how I have overwintered Water Lettuce and Hyacinth.

I used a large tank called a stock tank that is used for watering livestock. This tank is made by Rubbermaid and is a dark grey plastic and quite thick.

Put the tank into as much sun as you have available during the middle of winter. I am sure to use an Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter for the electricity to avoid a nasty shock or even death if the heaters should fail. I cut two 2 x 2s just long enough to fit into the first set of rings about four inches down in the tank. This tank I use is a 100 gallon size. I also put a couple of wraps of insulation around the tank to keep the heat in. Fill the tank to the first ring with water from your pond as it will have more nutrients. Then I wrapped the cord of a 100 to a 150 watt SUBMERSIBLE aquarium heater around the 2 X 2 making sure that it does NOT reach the plastic in any way. Repeat at the other end with a second aquarium heater. Then wait till the water is up to about 78 degrees and put in a few of the very best most vigorous starts of your plants. I don't usually do more than about half the water surface filled with plants due to lack of nutrient. I have always added a few young goldfish or a couple of baby koi to the water being careful to acclimate them to the heat. Then cover the whole tank with an old window that will let the light in but keep the heat in also. I feed the fish all winter as they are in active growth and will give off the nutrients that the plants will need to survive. Some winters the plants get smaller but most winters they hold their own or even multiply.

Check the heaters periodically as I have had a few fail or break.

I have also overwintered tropical water lilies in this method.

Good luck.

Tucson, AZ(Zone 9b)

Very cool Ponditis!I have the same tank I use for quarantining my fish I will try this this winter. Do you have the 2x2 laying across the top of tank or the first ring of the tank so that the heater hangs down into the tank? Thank you for the tip. Have you tried using a water soluable fertilizer in the tank during the winter? I use it during the summer and the plants go nuts. Does feed algae blooms though.

Seattle Burbs, WA(Zone 8b)

Very cool. I think this is do-able. I'm thinking I can try this on a smaller scale and leave it on my patio. You said you initially set the thermometer at 78 degrees. What is the temp you keep it at with the fish and plants. Also do you put in some type of pump to keep the water circulating?

Lincoln City, OR(Zone 9a)

I hang the 2 x 2s down on the first ring of the tank. The heaters hang so they don't touch the plastic which might melt. It does get some algae and the aphids explode their population if they are on the plants when you put them in but that can be handled on a warm day when you just take the plants into the house and wash them off. I don't worry about the algae.

I forgot to add that you need to weigh down the window or the first wind will remove it.

The temp I keep these tanks at is about 78 degrees all winter. That way if the temps dip down colder than cold the water in the tank won't freeze the plants even if it gets colder due to lack of the heaters being able to keep up with the outside temps. The insulation around the tank helps but leave the top open so they get plenty of sun. I do NOT circulate the water as that would make the heaters work harder.

I live in zone 6 now but this has worked for me in zone 4 with lots of tank insulation.

As far as fertilizer goes I have fertilized at the start of the fall when I first put them in and found not much difference in the ones that weren't fertilized.

Seattle Burbs, WA(Zone 8b)

This is great, thanks for sharing your method.

Lincoln City, OR(Zone 9a)

You are very welcome! I hope you have success with it as I am sure you will.

Cedar Key, FL(Zone 9a)

I wonder if I can somehow adapt this method in my GH....

Lincoln City, OR(Zone 9a)

They need lots of sun and are heavy feeders of nutrient, but other than that they should do fine. I will be waiting to see how they do for all of you. I need to get to the nursery and get some of the ruffled ones since they were so pretty and unique.

Seattle Burbs, WA(Zone 8b)

OK, here is my setup! Kind of hokey? Maybe? :-D

I think it will work. (The rush won't stay in, it's there just temporarily).
This de-icer was loaned to me to 'test'. It only will come on at 40 degrees tho.
I am thinking I will need something else? Our minimums can get in
the 20's, but normally around 35.

Thumbnail by Sue_WA
Lincoln City, OR(Zone 9a)

for tropicals you will probably need a warmer temp for the winter months. Your set-up looks like it will work though. Just make sure it is in full sun and they get plenty of nutrients because they are heavy feeders.

Graham, WA

Can you just leave the water hyacinths and lettuce in the pond over the winter? Will they die. I have a large pond and too many plants to deal with. Thanks.

Lincoln City, OR(Zone 9a)

Sorry, Blue Lotus but if you live in a zone much colder than tropical temps they will die over the winter if left in the pond. Put them in your compost heap and they will give you great nutients for your plants and if you don't have compost then just bury them alongside some of your favorite plants as a soil conditioner.

You will have to get new ones in the spring. Luckily they don't cost much and are fairly easy to find in our two states.

Happy Ponding,
Lani

Seattle Burbs, WA(Zone 8b)

Oh, I'm happy to see this thread pop up again! :)

I will say everything survived in that setup last year except the lettuce and hyacinth! LOL. Well, I did try, and you did tell me it probably would not work. :)

This year, I put the lettuce and hyacinth in a tub inside the greenhouse. I'm happy to say everyone is happy and cozy inside and growing too. Keeping fingers and toes crossed...................

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