Typical signs of nitrate over fertilization

Herbstein, Germany(Zone 5a)

Flower and leaves of Rothkirch. The plant was given accidently twice a dosis of 27% nitrate. Two days after, this picture was made, all leaves and flowers fell off.
It needed almost 100 gallons of water, the get the salt out of the root ball and it needed nearly seix weeks for the plant to recover.

Thumbnail by monika
Lima, OH(Zone 5a)

Wow! Looks like leaf burn. I have never had this type of thing happen.

Coal Center, PA(Zone 6a)

I have seen this, Monika. Never to this degree, but I have seen it occasionally in my brugs.
Especially in the heat of summer. I 'instinctively' thought it had something to
do with fertilizer over dose .. and flushed and waited fertilizing again until symptoms subsided
and new foliage returned good.
Thanks for this photo. And always for your advice to grow brugmansias better.

True, a pix is worth 1000 words, too. Could not have explained this in words so well.
Thanks again (o:

Herbstein, Germany(Zone 5a)

Some of you wrote in the past about damage to the foliage of the brugs, so when I found these pictures today, I decieded to post them at the forum, to show, that an overdoing of fertilizing can cause damage also.

San Leandro, CA(Zone 9b)

Monika, this happened to me just a few weeks ago. I put a handful of Rose food with a systemic insecticide on each of my pots in the hoophouse to keep spidermites from spreading. Within 2 days I have the big leaves on each brug get that kind of damage. I figured it must me my heavy hand so I scooped up all the fertilizer left on the top and tossed it. So far no more damage. thank god!

Thumbnail by Kell
Coal Center, PA(Zone 6a)

Kell, that is the exact thing that I did to cause this.
Rose systemic for spider mites.
I removed same way ..and all seem recovered.

Denver, CO(Zone 5b)

I thought this would be good to bump, to show what can happen with over fertilizing.

Yukon, OK(Zone 7b)

Good job Shelly! I wasn't a member back then and this has really helped me. I've used Rose systemic, but the smell was so horrid I just couldn't put much on my brugs....LOL I will know to be careful from now on.

Denver, CO(Zone 5b)

I wasnt a member either Brin.. lol I just love looking back for old good info, or beautiful pics. There is SO much to be learned. I love this place!

Angleton, TX(Zone 9a)

There is so much great info in past threads and I like to see them bumped. Even though I have read many before, it refreshes my memory. On occasion, when I have time and am just browsing, I will bump one that I feel would be of interest especially to the some of the newer members.

Deep South Coastal, TX(Zone 10a)

I did this once, the leaves looked horrible and then fell off. I learned that more is not always a good thing!

Brundidge, AL(Zone 8b)

could that be what is wrong with this plant?

Thumbnail by springsong
Herbstein, Germany(Zone 5a)

No, it is not springsong.
Do you have a better picture?

Pocahontas, TN(Zone 7b)

good info

Lewiston, CA(Zone 7b)

I think we have all done that a time or 2. I try to water first before any systemic, then water again, don't put it on dry soil. I burned the heck out of a bunch of mine in the GH this last spring.
I agree, this place is a wealth of information!
Bj

La Grange, TX(Zone 8b)

Would cutting a regular dose of systemic in half and applying it say a week apart be as effective? Would it avoid leaf burn?

San Leandro, CA(Zone 9b)

I believe it is the fertilizer in the Bayer Rose food and systemic that causes the burn not the systemic insecticide. I have used the systemic by itself now enough and never have had any burning.

I always water the plant one day, then the next day I sprinkle the Bayer around the soil evenly, no clumps. Then water that in. When I do it that way, I have not had any problems. Last week I didn't follow my own directions and CG dropped half its leaves over night. I scooped out what I could see then flushed the 25 gallon pot for over a half hour. The brug stopped dropping leaves and is in full bloom now.

Veronica, the trouble is if you reduce the systemic part by too much, it won't kill the bugs it is supposed to and they may get immune faster.

La Grange, TX(Zone 8b)

Thanks for the info, Kell.

Muskegon, MI(Zone 5a)

Thank you for this info..I usually use the liquid systemic and bought the dry this year thinking it would be less mess..this thread will help me be more careful with spreading the systemic around the base of the plant...Judy

San Diego, CA(Zone 10a)

The Bayer says to work it into the soil. I religiously moved all the bark to do this. Will it make a difference or should I have just winged it onto the bark and watered?

SE Arky, United States(Zone 8a)

I learned my lesson forever this year re chemicals. I do exactly as Kell does, and water them WELL the day before I apply anything, fert, chems, foliar, drench. Only after I'm certain they have been watered well will I apply a chem or fert, etc. Then, after the chem/fert sits, I lightly water again. There are no shortcuts with this procedure, too risky.

Muskegon, MI(Zone 5a)

Well Im thinking now that the reason I couldnt find the dry Bayer is because its more of a problem with burning the plant..I can find the liquid all over the place but thought the dry would be so easy to use...I did find it on the shelf of Home Depot but it was so dusty that I knew it was old...I have used the liquid and didnt like the fact I need to mix it but will consider using it now with the threat of burning my brugs....Judy

Portland, OR(Zone 8b)

I have a snowbank that is showing symptoms of nitrate over fertilization and I didn't realize that's what it was until I saw this thread. I added a large amount of rose fert to the soil and a couple handfuls of slow-release fert. Waaaay too much even for a brug.

San Leandro, CA(Zone 9b)

Judy, what wet Bayer? The only one I know that kills mites is the rose granules. I'd love to have another product to kill them with that is not a spray. LOL

Muskegon, MI(Zone 5a)

Kell, the only way I could find Bayer Rose systemic is in the liquid form..you have to just add water...it doesnt burn the plant when I pour it into the soil...I just used it on my air potatoes that developed scale...they are now bug free..lol....Judy

Tellico Plains, TN(Zone 7b)



This message was edited Sep 19, 2005 5:52 PM

San Leandro, CA(Zone 9b)

Judy, do you use this Bayer Advanced™ All-In-One Rose & Flower Care Concentrate?

http://www.bayeradvanced.com/garden/products/details.cfm?id=44

Unfortunalely it doesn't list spider mites though. I think the granules is the only one that kills them.

Here is the granules.
http://www.bayeradvanced.com/garden/products/details.cfm?id=3

Thumbnail by Kell
Muskegon, MI(Zone 5a)

Yup Kell thats the stuff and I didnt know it didnt take care of spider mites...I will check my bottles today and see what it says...I finally found the grandules the other day at Home Depot but I could tell it was on the shelf for a long time since all of the bottles were full of dust...I guess around here the liquid is the popular item...and I just looked on the back of my bottle and it has alot more info on what it kills then the link you sent but still no spider mites...I have used it for scale and it works great....thanks for bringing that to my attention...now tell me where I can get a systemic product without fertilizer in it?...when Im bringing my brugs in I sure dont want them to get fertilizer when im trying to have them go dormant...any thoughts?...Judy

San Leandro, CA(Zone 9b)

I have used the Bayer Tree and Shrub for scale and it was just fantastic and it lasts up to a year in the tree, Judy.

I have a systemic for mites without the fertilzer. It took me hours one night to find one and to track it down. I will get the bottle later and get the name. It is the same systemic insecticde that is in the Bayer rose 2 in 1.

Muskegon, MI(Zone 5a)

Thats great...I sure appreciate you sending the name...Im going to try and have bug free plants this winter...ya right..lol...Judy

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