Can somebody please tell me what I should be doing to brugs now if I want to make "trees" and interplant them with neat other stuff in the ground this summer? I don't want it to look dorky, want it to look as gorgeous as some of the plantings I've seen. Of course, they don't all have to be trees, I realize that, but I would like to know the correct procedure. Thanks.
Making brug trees
My best luck with trees has come from growing seedlings. I'm sure someone else here can direct you to how to make taller "trees" from cuttings. I do know that the cuttings need to come from below the flowering region to make the taller ones.
Brugie, someone from this forum (and I apologize profusely, since I don't remember who it was) sent me a whole bunch of Whiskers seedings. 11 of them, to be exact..........and if you who sent them are reading this, THEY ALL MADE IT and are looking good. Maybe I can make these into "trees"?? What do I do, strip the leaves and everything off from the bottom up for a ways, saving the top, I assume??
Let one brugstick grow until it will get one or two Y twigs.
Never cut back under ( below ? )the Y. Seedlings are very good for getting trees because they grow straight in high.
Always remember: Never cut back the first two Y.
Glory
Feb 03, 2003
Anna,
Whisker is known for it's height...mine normally get at least 7-8 ft tall before they Y.
Oh, criminy................
Anna, I didn't even think to tell you about horizonal rooting (log cuttings). See this link cause all the shoots will grow straight up, just like you want them. http://www.brugmansias.org/startcut.html
I agree not to cut below the Y if you want flowers fast every season. However, I do not agree not to cut below the Y, if you want to make a higher tree and have the patience to wait 1-2 months more for flowers.
Several years ago I grew B. aurea Gelber Kornet under its danish name Golden Queen. I used to cut just below the Y and this resulted in a new shoot that grew to 50-60 cm and formed a new Y. This way my aurea got 50-60 cm higher and grew a new crown. I must confess, that it took from spring to July to put out flowers of the new crown, but seen on longer terms it works perfect for additional height. If both height and flowers is important it will be a good idea to root a couple of flowering branches, before you cut the mother plant below the Y. Then you will have both.
I rooted all my cuttings from Tig using the log method and they are all growing straight and tall. Select the best looking trunk coming from the log and trim off the rest. Ted
Anna, if you are patient enough: in my book is an article about: how to raise trees and their further care and pruning.
Anna,
if you do like in Monikas book or we said to you. You will have trees in one year.
Cutting back below the first Y most time will give curved trees. It doesnt look very well
GL
No, not nessicarely. The L`Amour I was growing last year and one of Liz sanguinea crosses was not growing straight up. In fact L`Amour was growing paralel to the ground as she was a cutting from a horisontal flowering branch. I put a large wood stick in the ground beside both plants and tied them up straight and and then the woody parts straightned up.
Here is L`Amour before I straightened her out. Note the pot in the right side of the picture. The plant is virtually growing away from its pot.
This message was edited Saturday, Feb 8th 6:03 PM
DD Sarah and my tree. :)
Monika, I can hardly wait to get your book. I figured you would have something in there about how to do it. Thanks, everyone for your suggestions.
A tree, which has a straight trunk (stem) looks always prettier Anna. I like large trees,with a trunk that reaches up to my nose. The Y has to be in height of my nose. Half stems look pretty in containers with under planting of annuals. The large trees form my alley and there are several, which could have more size.
I had to 'Bump' this one, cos' this year I have TREES!!!! Woo hoooooooooooooo There is such great information on this thread too
Julie