My Brug.

Noblesville, IN(Zone 5a)

My starts that I potted up are getting great leaves. Does this mean that they are doing well in their pots?

Deep South Coastal, TX(Zone 10a)

That's usually a good sign. Can you see little white roots in the holes at the bottom of the pot?

Noblesville, IN(Zone 5a)

They have roots yes. I guess they may be on their way. The Jutner Orange has big leaves and the others are getting there. I can't wait to see if I actually have gotten them to grow.

FSH, TX

Roots are a great sign, but be careful not to disturb too much during the initial root formation as I have been too enthusiastic cking on roots and killed a few before that way. Seems that their is only so much shock some cuttings can take before they kick the bucket. I have also found that the hardwood cuttings can be soaked in water for 24 hours after removing all leaves then dried for 24 hours with a fungicide on the base. Allowed to dry this way their is less chance of them rotting as they root as the bottom tends to callus up faster that way. Sure the fungucide helps as well.

Deep South Coastal, TX(Zone 10a)

Brugmansia
As always, great advice. I didn't think about doing it that way!! thanks

FSH, TX

Calalilly,
I honestly think much of plant care,propagation, grafting, etc...is simply watching the plants and how they react in nature, in ones yard and largely one finds out interesting new techniques by simple accident-but everything boils down to experimentation and observation of results. The one thing I forgot to mention in the above post which most of you will take for granted is simply this-the reason one soaks before drying is to insure the cuttings do not go past their permanent wilting point and dry up on you/die. I have used the above method with best success with very hardwood cutttings, but very green cuttings can be done the same way. One sometimes has to make allowances and simply soak for 24 hours and then leave out for a few hours at time instead of the full 24 hours until a callous starts to form with the greener cuttings and of course one mus watch for wrinkling in the stem and softening as well which indicates the stem is drying out too much when dealing with softer greener stems. Placing the cut part in pure perlite or pure sand also seems to increase root formation and decrease rot as well. Placing the stem above the cut in pure humous will allow the stem to still retain plenty of moisture and root instead of rotting from both the sides and the bottom. When rooting in pure humous I have found it better to simply saturate once and then not to water at all until the cutting starts to wilt. Of course with everything I think experience plays the biggest part and simple observation. I know I do ramble on too much and when you have a vast assortment of experienced growers everyone has their own soil and watering scheme that seems to work best for them. Just throwing this stuff out for those that may be able to make use of it or alter it to fit their brug growing needs. Anyone out here tried to graft Brugmansisia yet? Sorry, off topic...leaving now...Just a note though, Brugmansia are extremly easy to graft to each other. Posted a good how to somewhere in here for those of you not experienced in grafting in here somewhere.

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