We had about 5 days of solid rain here several days w rain all day long. We sprayed our fruit trees right after the blossoms fell off (apples). I think we still sprayed too soon and I also read the amount of poison per gal wrong and prob doubled the poison. It was regular fruit tree spray that we used. This apple tree didn't get sprayed as much as the others. This one is newer. But the branches look aweful. We have this going on w this tree in the photo and one other larger older tree. But there is also a other older apple tree that was sprayed the same time and it is completely fine. I just wonder if it's our fault these trees look like this cause we used too much poison. Our pear trees look like this also and I have an aronia bush that has damage like this and it wasn't sprayed at all. Nor did it get over spray on it. The pear trees might have gotten over spray.
Any help would be appreciated.
Also. Were loosin leaves like the pic of the young apple tree. It hasn't been sprayed but lewves are just falling off like crazy. And is it bad to tie up a tree like we have in the one pic. I think the hoses might be causing damage. Going to cut them off tomorrow.
Problems with fruit trees again
I suggest that you research Fire Blight. It’s a bacterium which is devastating to pome fruit trees in this area, SW Ark. Warm spring temperatures and splashing rains really rouse it out of bed and spread it from where it has overwintered in fissures along the limbs. Look for tiny cracks in limbs and leaves that look as if they have been blow-torched. The leaves won’t fall off even though they are very dead. If it’s FB, over time these lesions will weaken the limbs and cause them to break some year of heave fruit set.
Everything under the sun above has its reason, but you will learn to hate FB with a Fire Ant hating vengeance.
Try to have fun.
thanks.
I did a little searching on the net, it did say to cut off the infected area of the tree limbs and discard the cuttings, and spray with terremycin or streptomycin. is that what you would recommend? That's an antibiotic. strange. It didn't even say how much to use or how often to spray them.
We're just growing fruit trees for our own consumption, but jeese, this is getting ridiculous!! We've had horrid rains here, and then hot and humid. we've had a bad winter and a bad spring.
If you can help me get in the right direction of what to spray on them, and how to dilute it to water. I have used the terremycin on cows for an antibiotic but never on trees, it only gave me instructions for mixing for l00 gallons of water, not 2 or 3 gallons of water, lol It also said I can use copper, I've used copper once already to help with the cancers that my trees had, and it has helped tremendously, I think it stopped it dead in it's tracks. Can I just spray with the copper again after I cut off all the fire blight on the tree limbs?
Yes copper also has anti bacterial properties but can also burn foliage. Apply it late in the day to avoid burn.
Ok, thanks . I appreciate the help.
As a home orchard man I can identify with your problem of trying to deduce the dosage for a gallon of spray from a hundred gallon recipe. What I do is study teaspoons, tablespoons, cups, gallons (You can find on the Web calculators that will do the cipherin’ for you) and then proportion out the dosage for how much spray I want to mix. As for the cutin’ ‘er out, I’ll talk about it. From a down to earth viewpoint, as the tree grows, that chore is going to grow along with it, unless you can grow a tail or wings. But you can take assurance that Spring is the worst time for fire blight. Summer heat and less rain will slow it down. (It’s raining now.)
You probably don’t want to use my battle plan; you’re probably not lazy enough. Other than closely observing the war and picking up and disposing of a dead limb now and again, I don’t get involved. But I do pick up fallen fruit each fall and feed it to the chickens or use it to lure deer or feral hogs into sniper range. It puts out a pleasing aroma. (Beware of the wasps) Looked at from a certain slant, it’s a hard world; witness your struggling pomes.
Presently there are four pear trees on The Place. Two, separated by about forty feet of sandy loam, are the last of the Old Orchard. Per piecing together snippets of family lore, they are near a hundred. Per that lore, my paternal grandmother set them out shortly before the house in which we live was built, 1919. They jarred fruit by the half-gallons to help winter them over, mostly figs, pears, and clingstone peaches. They depended on the fruit trees; we don’t.
For the two Old Timers, if I had to name cultivars, it would be Bartlett for the good one and an I Have No Idea But I Don’t Want Another One for the bad one. (But in doing so I could be as wrong as war) The two are starkly different. The one that has been good in the past–I’ll refer to her as Bartlett–is about forty feet tall and has filled many bellies and jars with succulent fruit. Since I have known it, the other has always been a wimp, and its produce has always been wimpy. I’ve probably tasted no more than a score of pears off it over the years, those just to see if Time had changed its nature; it hasn’t. I probably should have uprooted it years ago to get it out of its bacterial misery and to rescue me from having to watch its slow decline, but I’m unable to erase something that’s lived here longer than I have.
Forty feet is out of lethal range for my backpack sprayer. I have been high in Bartlett, tossing her fat fruit down to sure-handed catchers on the ground, but those climbs are long in my rear view mirror. So, cutting out the enemy is out. In that reflection there is no fire blight. We had never even heard the term. The best I figure, it arrived in our area about thirty-five years ago. How did it get here, on a bird’s foot, riding the wind? Where did it come from, Pome Hell? Much is a mystery.
Another pear tree, given as a gift to my father, is about forty years old. It survives about eighty yards north of Bartlett. When it can manage to slip an undamaged pear past the enemy–which is as hard to do as slippin’ daylight past a rooster–the fruit is fabulous. She–I would again guess Bartlett–is a large tree also, but not as large as Bartlett.
So I employed a covert ploy: genetics. About twenty year ago I set two bare root whips, a Moonglow and a Kieffer; both, I read and still read, are resistant to fire blight. (Any organism resists the enemy, I think. A marketing ploy, you think?) I set them about a hundred yards due west of Bartlett, my thinking being that the prevailing wind here, SSE, would not be continually remanning enemy lines. And it’s good dirt.
Best I remember, the Moonglow survived less than ten years. Her fruit didn’t make you crave so that you begged her to give you some more. She and three apple trees whose cultivars I don’t recall–one was a cooking apple, I do remember, which Help Meet really liked–are the only trees which I have set that FB totally annihilated.
But I don’t overtly get involved in the fighting. (I’ve considered trying an Arkansas Black. What cultivars have you set?) The Kieffer produces more than we use; we’re not as dependent on the trees as my grandmother was. Taste and texture are good, but not on the level of Bartlett’s in her day. Kieffer appears to fight a stronger fight against fire blight than Bartlett does, but she has genetics, possibly, and the vigor of youth, assuredly, going for her.
Back to the tail or wings, unless you can do it, I suggest that you keep your trees, which look young, at a manageable size for the home orchard woman. How well pome trees kept pruned to a few feet will look and produce, I don’t know. But I do know that if the field of battle grows too large and the enemy gains the high ground, an army with limited artillery range and mobility will be helpless to the destruction raining down.
The rain’s stopped, but it’s still overcast.
Try to have fun.
Great story Adam, thanks for sharing.
yes, thank you !!
the one in the picture is young, the other two aren't so young.
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