I need weed talk

I already have weeds in my flower beds. I applied corn gluten meal to all yesterday (raked back mulch, then covered it again after putting meal down). I'm headed out now to water it in. My question is, since some seeds have obviously germinated, does that mean my preemergent treatment is all for naught? Do all seeds germinate at the same time?

Also, a woman was out here yesterday who said, "Oh, those are winter weeds, and they'll die when the sun hits them. She seemed to be knowledgable, but I'm not sure she's right about that.

I did learn some good facts about all that on the www.natures-guide.com site. That's the gluten meal I use.

not all weeds germinate at same time. for our area, you probably have til end of Feb to use pre-emergent and have it do some good. It will do NOTHING to stuff that is already germinated, just future plants.

As to winter weeds, sun does not kill them, just send them into dormancy. If you do not remove chemically or manually, they will come stronger and stronger ea year. Same cycle for summer weeds.

Thanks, Vossner. On the website I learned to treat again around last week in September for the winter weeds. Oh, the life of a farmer, huh?

you could even do a late spring/early summer, I'd say June, if you're wanting to fight with all your might. I'm gonna apply 3 times in an area, as an experiment. In the past, have done only spring/fall b/c that is all that's been needed.

Let me know how your experiment works, ok?

You can pour 20% vinegar on them and see if the sun will kill them down to the roots. I'm going to try that this year with some weeds that I've had a hard time eradicating.

Stephanie, does the vinegar affect your close wanted plants like, say Roundup would?

Not usually as long as you aim it directly at the weed, don't broadcast it. I use an old milk jug with the bottom cut off and a little cut out on the side to "aim" my spray at the designated weed.

I just mulch weeds to death.

This was in the Dirt Doctor's newsletter regarding weed control:

1. Corn Gluten Meal - It is a natural weed and feed fertilizer. It should be broadcast to prevent grassburs, crabgrass, and other annual weeds that germinate from seed. The key is to broadcast the material before the weed seeds germinate. Possibly its best use is around root crops, bulb plants like onions and other transplants. CGM on the bare soil around the young plants feeds to help develop big healthy plants while keeping the competing weeds at bay. CGM can also be used with this method in seed planting but only after the seeds have grown into small seedlings.

2. Crabgrass Killer - Agralawn Crabgrass Killer is a natural weed killer used to kill crabgrass, chickweed, and other similar weeds. Cinnamon bark is the active ingredient. This product is especially effective on clovers of all kinds. It is applied dry to moistened foliage and kills quickly without hurting most turfgrasses. This is currently the only selective natural organic herbicide.

3. Fatty Acid and Plant Oil Products - There are several of these fancy, strong soaps and plant oil products on the market including EcoSMART, Monterrey Herbicidal soap, Scythe, and Racer. They are non-selective herbicides that usually have to be sprayed more than once.

4. Flame Weeders - Red Dragon is the specific brand I have tried and it works on many tough to control weeds. There are small lightweight models for the homeowner and large commercial selections as well. They run on propane gas. Of course, be careful using any fire producing device.

5. Molasses - Dry or liquid molasses can be used to kill off hard-to-control weeds - even nutsedge. The dry product is used at 20 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. as a fertilizer and fire ant repellant. Doubling that rate causes a herbicidal effect on certain weeds. Liquid molasses used at about a cup per gallon of water kills nutsedge. It usually takes 2 or 3 applications and the nutsedge slowly dies away.

6. Vinegar - The best choice for herbicide use is 10% white vinegar made from grain alcohol. It should be used full strength. I've mentioned 20% in the past, but it is stronger than needed and too expensive. There is one exception. Nature's Guide now has a 20% vinegar legally registered to be sold as an organic weed killer.

7. Hand Tools - Hand weeding is still legal and recommended and it doesn't take that much time if done a little at a time on a regular basis. Regular hoes, stirrup hoes, weed poppers and twisters are among the choices.

Vinegar Herbicide Formula:
1 gallon of 10% (100 grain) vinegar
Add 1 ounce orange oil or d-limonene
Add 1 tablespoon molasses (optional - some say it doesn't help)
1 teaspoon liquid soap or other surfactant (I use Bio Wash)
Do not add water

Shake well before each spraying and spot spray weeds. Keep the spray off desirable plants. This spray will injure any plants it touches. This natural spray works best on warm to hot days.

Vinegar sprayed on the bases of trees and other woody plants will not hurt the plants at all. This technique was first learned about by spraying the suckers and weeds growing around the bases of grapevines. Use only natural vinegars and avoid all vinegar products made from glacial acetic acid.

oohhh need to find agralawn cg killer. have lots of clover growing thru rain lilies. tks for the tip

Nery, Im trying to get some white clover to grow in a certain area, Ive planted seed twice now and not much to show. Could you pot me up some clover and I'll come get it at y;our convenience?

Marty, you are wanting just the common clover? We have it all over the farm. I have been trying to get red clover to take hold as well as hairy vetch because they are so much prettier. I can also see about potting some of the white clover up for you at the RU.

Yes, just white dutch clover. There are some butterflies that use it. Cant recall which right now. Thanks Joy. That would be great.

Marty, I am so glad you have turned into a butterfly Mom.

Parenthood is terrifying I would assume. I got so much anxiety about making sure I did not kill those six Monarchs, I cannot imagine how frightened I would be to be responsible for bringing up a child.

Yes, the first one is scary, bur after you have been indoctrinated into parenthood, the rest are a breeze.

I don't have a problem squishing a infected chrysalis or butterfly now; unlike my first experiences of trying everything hoping they survived only to be heart broken to come in and find them dead.
I only had one child, but if I had given birth a second time; who knows I may have killed them at birth too! LOL!
Sorry, I could resist elaborating your example Marty!

Raising my hand and waving , oh please Joy could you pot me up some white clover? I have seeded for it a couple of times and can't seem to get it going. Scarlet clover I seed in fall does start, I have 5 lbs of giant red clover seeds if anyone wants any, but I just want old fashioned white clover, with the little round ball flowers about 1/2 inch across that the bees just love. I have some seed, but it just isn't taking off, probably I don't water enough

Marty, just realized I have wood sorrel, NOT clover. Sorry

Thanks for checking Nery. Im like Gypsi. Ive seeded several times but still no plants.

Gypsi, I will be potting up nettle for Marty tomorrow and will try and remember the clover as well. I was always told that clover was a sign that your ground needed improving, that clover would only grow in poor dirt. That was as a kid.

Need to get it done before Wednesday, I go in for surgery on my right arm. I apparently have ulnar neuropathy, a fancy name for my hand going numb. It should be an easy one compared to last year.

Joy

Joy, dont forget I wanted clover as well.

Because clover is a nitrogen fixer- yup, needs bad soil. Chuckle.

on the bright side I may have had some white clover from the last seeding survive, won't know til I see bloom color as I know I think I put crimson clover at the back of the bed and white at the front, If I get some I will pot some up to share. If I don't, I'd like 1 start and I'll just stick it in a flower bed and nurture along.

Back to the vinegar question, I've used 20% vinegar for years, even after Garrett (the Dirt Doctor) stopped recommending it. The only thing that I've been bothered with is that it eventually eats thru the plastic spray bottles I use. Or I'll apply it on a sunny day and then the next day it will rain. But other than that, I think it works pretty good. And when Garrett first recommended it, if memory serves, he said to add some orange oil to it.

There's another brand I found by accident last year. It's called 'Black Jack Twenty-One'. It has 21% vinegar and also includes Yucca extract, Olive Oil, Garlic Oil, Citrus Oil, and Molasses. These extra ingredients are supposed to act as sticking, wetting, and emulsifying agents. Who knows? This product is made by Maestro-Gro.

I used one other product but don't remember the name. All the products about the same. Good luck.

This message was edited Mar 5, 2014 1:24 PM

Has anyone actually tried using molasses as a weed killer? I've got lots of nutsedge I'd like to kill.

I think my neighbor is, he bought 40 lbs of dry molasses at the feed store last week, but I don't know if it works

I've been using plain white vinegar in the one gallon bottles from Walmart for years with lots of success on unwanted plants. It even worked on poison ivy but it took several applications.

GymGirl swears by the molasses- not sure what her requirements of it are.