Transplanting mature shrubs

Burleson, TX(Zone 8a)

I lost all but one of my Indian Hawthorne right in front of my house--just in front of my front porch. I use to have them on both corners of the house, as well as the front middle. Now I only have them on the north corner. I would like to move them to the front, and then plant something else in the north and south corner beds, Well, actually, they're big circles. I think the view from the front would be much more balanced looking.

I'm just wondering how successful are mature shrub transplants. These are dwarf Indian Hawthorne, and they are very healthy. I know transplanted "anything" looks pretty rough the first year or so.

Well, can't seem to get them to stay right side up. Sorry.

Thumbnail by sybram Thumbnail by sybram
Magnolia, TX(Zone 9a)

Your camera takes pix that are longer than wide, if you edit the phone pix and expand the square to the screen size, your pix will stand up, chuckl

Burleson, TX(Zone 8a)

Thanks, Kitt. I'l try. All help appreciated. I correct them on the computer, but they don't stay. Boo. I'll try your advice.

Dallas, TX

Aside from the advice about the pictures, does anyone have advice/opinions on the original question regarding transplanting mature healthy shrubs? Or other shrubs that are slow growers b/c they were probably planted in the wrong place to begin with?

Mesquite, TX

Although these may have been replaced by newer methods, there are two ways to transplant mature shrubs that I'm aware of. Both require a bit of work and patience on your part.
1. Use a sharpshooter spade driven downward some distance, perhaps a foot or so, around the perimeter of the selected plant/bush to cut the existing horizontal and vertical root system. This causes the plant/bush to form new feeder roots within the cut area. After waiting some time, perhaps 2 to 4 months, the plant is then dug out using the same general and original area as your guide to removing the root ball and entire plant. Slip some medium such as burlap, plastic sheeting, or whatever under the root ball to keep the soil ball intact and transplant immediately into the new planting hole which has been previously prepared, removing the "carrier material" before refilling and packing the hole as necessary and then watering in well to settle.
2. The second method is essentially the same as the first although there is no waiting period for the plant to regrow any lost root system. This method will require that you trim 1/3 to 1/2 of the top growth back to make up for the now smaller and less efficient root ball that is remaining.

Both methods will benefit from applications of root stimulator once monthly for several months or until planting shock wears off. Typically, it also benefits the plant if you do not add high nitrogen type fertilizers until the plant/bush is settled in and growing well as this will promote top growth which the plant may or may not be able to handle because of the reduced root system. As with any new planting, water well and often to reduce planting stress.
Hope this helps although quite honestly, there are some shrubs of size that are far easier to replace using "new" container grown specimens than trying to transplant older, albeit healthy existing specimens that you may already have.
Steve


This message was edited Mar 22, 2014 8:21 AM

Burleson, TX(Zone 8a)

Thanks all for your comments. I'm off to find that container of root stimulater that I know I had at one time.

Post a Reply to this Thread

Please or sign up to post.
BACK TO TOP