Bear with me, another question (sigh)

Murfreesboro, TN(Zone 7a)

My greenhouse project is "high centered" at the moment because I need to find some PVC fittings, specifically three-way and four-way T's (or 'L's)

Now, I can find these at Home Depot, etc. for PVC 1/2" in diameter (or smaller), but when you get larger than that, they are nowhere to be found. My BIL does plumbing work, and he can't get them because they are "structural fittings" not plumbing fittings :(

The online sources that the Circo site refers to have them - for nearly $3 apiece, not counting shipping/handling fees. Yikes!!!!

I feel like we must be doing something wrong, because this greenhouse is definitely costing way more than the $100 the directions indicated it should cost. The PVC alone was over $100. I'm guessing it will wind up costing us 3-4 times that, before shelving. Now granted, $300-$400 isn't that much in the "big scheme of things", but it's more than I'd like to spend. Any suggestions on how to keep the costs down? We have the PVC and fittings sitting here, so we can start from scratch if need be. Help!!!!

Surry, VA(Zone 7b)

Go_Vols, I also received a set of the plans for the $100 greenhouse and we found it was going to cost us more too. I figured that the plans may have originated at an earlier time when the costs would have been accurate.
Is there any way you can substitute schedule 40 pvc for the t's, crosses, and l's? We had to go to Lowe's to pick up some and a t was .49, cross (4 way)$1.51, 10 pack of couplings $1.90 or .29 each.
The used greenhouse we bought was made from schedule 40 1" pvc, but is braced with general purpose wire. Can you substitute and used the money saved towards the ventilation system? Just a thought. Carol

Murfreesboro, TN(Zone 7a)

Thanks for the ideas, Carol ;0) After I posted my big "whine" above, I started calling some more hardware and plumbing sources. I wound up talking to a very helpful wholesaler who had the biggest PVC fitting manufacturer's book in front of him, and THEY don't make a 4-way "T". I figured that was a sign from God that it was time to re-think the plans.

Long story short, we've modified the drawings, and yes, I'm adding a ventilation device to the gable end away from the door :) Hopefully we'll have the frame up by tomorrow evening.

Surry, VA(Zone 7b)

Go_Vols, now I'm baffled. We just bought the schedule 40 1" 4-way T's yesterday. The receipt calls them crosses though. I've found that the same material or tool can have a different name (slang) depending what part of the country you are from. Anyway, I'm glad that you were able to get around this and can start working on your frame. We just put our frame up today, and with the pieces already pre-cut it took us about 5 hours. We also had to clean the pvc and install a fan and thermostat. I wish you lived closer - we could have worked together on both greenhouses.

Jonesboro, GA(Zone 7b)

Vols - you mentioned a ventilation system. Haven't seen your plans or know the size, but my DH simply cut a window in the rear of mine and installed an inexpensive window that slides up. In the winter we tape bubble wrap over it and the window in the door. Without that window to open, it gets way too hot in there, even with the $85. louvered fan he installed. Another tip - if you don't put a liner in it,(used a heavy duty UV plastic), it will be very hard for your heater to keep up.

Murfreesboro, TN(Zone 7a)

Hey, all - thank you. Peggy, a 4-way T is different from a cross. Think of it in three-dimensional terms, where a cross is only two-dimensional. We've re-worked the plans to bypass the need for those buggers.

Azalea, good ideas. We are putting a vent system in the rear wall's gable area. (It involves velcro and a double-layer of UV film, so "system" is probably a bit too high-technical of a term for what we're doing, LOL!)

When you say a liner, I'm thinking we'll double layer it because we'll have plenty of film, but here's a question - do you leave an airpocket between the layers, or just double them up? I'm wondering if we shouldn't somehow use film on the outside of the PVC as well as the inside, which would create that air pocket? Can it be done? Should it be done that way?

Carol, I too wish we lived closer - we could trade plants and cry on each others shoulders!!!! Oh well, enough whining - out we go to work on it. I'll check back in here later today. Thanks ya'll!

Jonesboro, GA(Zone 7b)

An air space is always a good insulator, we used corrogated fiberglas on the outside, and a wooden frame not pvc. The fiberglas was the most expensive item. Then we stapled the vinyl to the inside of the frame ( put peoces of strapping tape under thr staples so it won't tear) - it is totally air tight and cozy in the winter. I have a small "milk-house electric heater which costs about $26.00 Mine is only 8 x 12 and it still cost about $1,000.00. we've had it 3 years and no trouble - yet!!!

Efland, NC(Zone 7a)

Vols...my g-house is double-layered, both layers are on the outside of the frame and I have a small fan that inflates the two layers (costs about $35-40), this is what gives it that "balloon" effect and really cuts down on heat bills. (The little fan that inflates it cost almost nothing to run.) I wouldn't put the pvc in between the two layers...moisture collects in there from time to time and may cause pre-mature damage to your pvc and also create a mold environment (also w/the pvc pipe on the inside of the greenhouse and easily available you can more easily attach electrical wiring to it as well as water lines and perhaps even shelves if the feet of the shelves are on the ground).

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