Tropical Plants and Gardens #120

Welcome to all lovers of tropical plants. Please post pictures of your tropical plants, flowers fruit, trees for us all to enjoy, discuss, and maybe even identify.

We came from here http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1255174/

KayJones, hope you have hopped over here - I got all those begonias from Alice! Others were holiday gifts from my kids, or I bought 'Looking Glass' at the local fancy nursery. The one in the pic above is 'Don Miller' another start I got from Alice. The little one with the pink flowers at right is 'Good 'n Plenty' a Christmas gift from my kids.

Elaine, that pretty dark one is Irene Nuss, my new favorite. She just grows in the nicest shape, that is a 10" pot she is in. This was taken last month, it has grown since then.

Mail lady has not come yet today,I am impatient to see the new ones.

Elaine, I'm here! Alice just sent me a box of cuttings (Thanks, again Alice!), and I have them potted up in half sand and half quality potting mix, sitting in a drip tray, to which I added water - is that the right way to treat them?

Sounds great to me, Kay. Personally I'm a fan of rooting cuttings in plain water, and then potting them up after I can actually see some new roots. I think I like to be sure there actually are roots, and it's fun to see them forming in the water.

As I understand it, cuttings will actually make their own root-forming hormones. This is why it's better to put lots of cuttings into one container of water if you're doing it that way. Then don't change the water, just add to it if needed. Some things make roots in a week in plain water.

I've also done it your way before with good results. I used seed starting mix, which has vermiculite and fine peat moss in the mix, and not as much fertilizer as regular potting mix. You've mixed with sand, so it should be fine. This time of year with the humidity as high as it is, I'd think they'll root well either way. Enjoy!

OK - Thanks!

You should be fine Kay, I just received a care sheet with my new begonias (I posted the pictures on the old thread) and there was a care sheet for both plants and cuttings. It said to place the cuttings in water to rehydrate them for a few hours then stick them in a propagating mixture similar to what you are using, good drainage is important. By leaving your tray in water for a while you are covering both parts. Interestingly it says you can begin foliar feeding immediately with a 1/4 strength fertilizer and a bit of baking soda as a fungicide. I have never done that which may explain why my plants take a while to get going.

Whatever method works for you is always best and I recently heard a big name speaker say he roots in water all the time. Personally I am not a fan of rooting in water although I often do it just for convenience. The roots that develop in water can be much softer and more fragile than those that reach out in soil and, in some (not all) situations, they can be damaged when eventually planted. Imagine floating in the gulf then coming out and rolling in the sand. I do have some cuttings in a glass on the kitchen window sill right now. Don Miller seems to break easily and it is next to impossible for those pieces to not make new roots. Whether I stick them in a nearby pot or a glass on the window sill that one will always root. One of my favorite ways to (sort of) water root things is to use a clear plastic cup filled with vermiculite and water. I get the best of both worlds that way. Essentially the roots are developing in water but they have something to push against making them stronger and I can see when they get going.

Alice, I will give them a couple of days to see if they are still perky - if not, I will switch to vermiculite and water. Thanks for all the good information AND the cuttings!

That's a great idea Alice!!!

sorry to interrupt your begonia conversation! but can someone tell me how to help my Persian shields! i have two and they look exactly the same as when i bought them - moths ago! they are just sitting there. one of them made some tiny new leaves, but other than that they haven't grown.
i have them both under a tree, and they get light shade midday and sun in the morning and afternoon. the soil is quite sandy in that part of my yard & they get watered well. should i move them?

Hm, I think the key to your problem might be the "under a tree" part. The light situation sounds fine, but plants under trees in Florida have to compete with the tree roots for every bit of sustenance and water. Sadly, to get the nice shade that most plants like in our summers, you need to plant under trees. What kind of tree is it?

It's also been a really warm, dry spring. So sorry for the 20 questions here but . . . When you planted them, did you make a big hole, and amend the hole with compost or anything? That sandy soil doesn't hold water or nutrients worth a darn. Did you yank out all the little stringy tree roots around where the new plant would go? Did you use root stimulant fertilizer (something like Quick Start or Super Thrive) to water in the new plant? Did you put down some slow-release fertilizer to keep feeding the plants while they get established? How about some mulch to keep the roots cool, keep down weeds and help retain moisture? New plants need to be watered pretty much every day for the first couple of weeks until you see lots of healthy new growth, then tapering down to every second, then every third day. (but don't let them wilt) New growth indicates new roots, so I'd say your plants haven't made much progress getting established where they are.

Frankly, I've taken to sinking big nursery pots for a lot of plants that I grow under my big old oak trees. Especially things like the begonias and plants with delicate roots really don't compete all that well with the voracious tree roots. It's hard for a new little plant to get established there. So the sunken pots give the plants a good chance to get big and lusty before the tree roots get into the pot and start competing for fertilizer and water. Also potting soil holds a lot more water and nutrients than the usual sand that everybody gardens in here. Sinking the pot instead of just leaving it sitting on top insulates the plant's roots from the heat of summer air, too.

Get the biggest black plastic nursery pots you can find, (I like the 3 gallon size at least) and sink to the rims where you want to grow your Persian Shields. If you don't have any old pots sitting around, Lowe's and HD sell them for a couple of bucks. Fill with potting soil, add some pelleted timed-release fert (if the potting soil doesn't already have it) and water every day until you see them growing. Mulch over the rim of the pot so you can't see it.

The only plants that really do fine under trees without much help here are bromeliads. They don't have much root system, and take most of their moisture and food from the air. Some types of ground orchids can do ok, too.

This big old cane begonia is in a pot in the ground, and very happy about it.

This message was edited Jun 2, 2012 6:22 PM

first of all: thanks so much for the help!
it is an oak but pretty young, it doesn't cast much shade below it except at midday. its maybe 15ish feet maybe 20..lol
i'm a criminal lol! i didn't do most of the things you listed. its mulched with maybe 3inches grass clippings and leaves, but the only amending i did was adding garden soil to the hole. i did remove a good amount of roots, but i was afraid of damaging the tree! is there a certain depth you can remove up to? im so hesitant! i also did provide it with water everyday for the first month (march) then i handwatered a few times a week plus the sprinker.
anyway, i can see what you mean about growing it successfully. i was thinking of moving it to another site i have open. this new spot -i was thinking- would be nice because the yellow scheffleras grow there, so i thought the color combo might be exciting. the soil there is actual soil lol it drains well and i use this area more for plants than under the trees. do you think moving the Persians there is a good idea?
beautiful begonia! i think your advice really has made it clear to me i need to broaden my options by using pots.

This message was edited Jun 2, 2012 7:02 PM

Since you're going to have to disturb the Persians anyway, it really makes no difference whether you re-plant them in pots where they are now, or move them to the other place. Except ! ! if the new spot has more sunlight. These plants are already stressed somewhat, so if you do move them to a sunnier location, best to set up something to shade them for the first couple of weeks. Dead branches, palm fronds, or a piece of shade cloth is ideal. We're coming up to the most intense sunshine we get all year, right? June 21st is the equinox. Max sun.

Even a 15 or 20ft. oak tree has roots everywhere under its canopy, and out to a few feet outside the drip line - where the leaf canopy ends. Oaks have a lot of shallow feeder roots too, so your little Persians very likely had some fierce competition going on there.

That being said the shade the tree casts is great. A lot of plants, even some that say "Full Sun" on the label, really like to be shaded at mid-day here in sunny Florida!

Last thing, grass clippings aren't really great for mulch, unfortunately. They can mat down and form like a thatch roof that sheds water and doesn't let any through. Best to invest a couple of bucks in a bag of wood chip mulch. Florimulch is the one I like best.

There you have it CZP!

Oh, that's a beauty, Drew. Somebody had a little snack of the leaf at the right - were you short of salad greens?

Better check that pot for snails, maybe?

slug!

Good morning, everyone! Debra, I hope you arrived home safely and found everything in order - let us know!

Drew, those are beautiful! It looks like one of our banana slugs got into your plant - geeze, they are horrible this year - the size of small planes!

Ewwwww, I didn't know they had banana slugs in Florida, I thought that was a Pacific Northwest problem.

Alice, yes - and they are GROSS!

gorgeous drew!

i have never thought of sinking a pot in the ground. hmm. i will have to try that. amazing the ideas you get in here. thanks.

i did the morning stroll in the garden to find this flowering. a neighbor gave it to me a couple of months ago. some sort of water plant. 3. tillansia 4. hedychium 5. 'glen' mango the best mango in my opinion, sweet with no fiber

a few more.

I've been sinking the 3 gal pots into the ground. I make sure they have a lot of holes for the roots to grow out. Fill the pot with a good potting soil. So far, it seems to be working very well. I've been quite successful in pulling them out & moving to a different location also.

Yikes Cassie, I'm pretty sure that water plant in your pictures is Water Hyacinth http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/661/ . Be very careful with it, it is one of the worst invasive water plants we have here! As long as you keep it in an isolated water garden it won't be a problem, but if seeds get carried away, it can invade your ditches and drainage ponds in a heartbeat! (deadhead the flowers before they go to seed)

Your mangos look just like mine. Yum! If I can just keep the squirrels from ruining half the crop, I'll be so happy eating mango for breakfast all summer!

thanks dyzzy. i have it in a little pot. thanks. i will keep up on it. i had no idea what it was.

these squirrels are relentless. they have already gotten at least 20. so we picked at least 30 last night. just to get ahead of them. some one said to hang moth balls in your tree? i haven't tried it because the run off from it raining everyday, not to mention the smell in the yard. it would remind me of my grandmothers attic.

I was thinking the same Elaine but doesn't it make a nice looking small pot? I do keep it in my pond and regularly weed it out for the compost bin. It does not grow in salt water and there are no nearby lagoons for it to invade from my garden.

Cassie your plants are gorgeous! I may need to find one of those Glen mangos and keep it in a big pot.

Can the squirrels jump to the tree from nearby trees? If not, you can put a band of aluminum, about 16" wide around the trunk of the tree, about 5' up, they can't scramble over that. If they can jump from other trees guess you are stuck. :-(

Balloons fluttering in the breeze work VERY well to keep critters out of small trees - never tried it on large trees.

Cassie, your flowers take my breath away - just GORGEOUS!

Is Rita EVER coming back?!! I miss her posts.

Maybe Debra will find time to post again soon, too - she's only been gone since Friday and I miss her so much already - can't wait for her to come back! Hopefully, next time, she can stay a week or more and we can make a road trip to see our cyber friends down south!!!

Ardesia that is my problem I have so many huge trees and palms, that they live in the canopy. They live a great life between the mango, avocado, palm seeds, bird seed and they love royal poinciana seed pods!

The mango seeds usually grow in to little trees. I have given them to friends in Tampa and they are getting fruit that taste the same. The 'glen' mango is called a patio mango because it can be grown in container. Pine island nursery in Miami had a class on growing fruit trees in an urban garden. I can send you a seedling when I get some or look up pine island they have some great choices in mangos

Thank you, maybe just a seed would be enough, I have grown them from seeds in the past.

Tropiflora has the worm killers on sale again. https://tropiflora.safenetserver.com/shop.cfm?page=display&ProductID=54890&iPageNbr=3&src=vipp

I tried the mothballs, made little "bells" using inverted yogurt cups with the mothballs suspended inside in a stocking. Not sure how well it worked because after just a couple of weeks I couldn't stand the smell any more. Mothballs do work well to keep ants out of our gate opener box, and outdoor power receptacles.

I'm going to get a package of balloons and try that! Good one, thanks, Kay! The other one I'd heard is hanging old CD's in the tree. Apparently the reflection scares off both birds and squirrels.

I've also got a few lychees on my tree starting to turn pink, and the birds are after them already. I've got a big enough piece of netting to cover that part of the tree, so I'm off to mess with that now.

I can vouch for the CD's. It worked for us, the squirrels were going to kill my variegated ginger so I strung them around the big pots on the side of the driveway and they stay out of the yard and the vacant lot next door. It was either that or put the pots in the dog run and let him chase them away, but he is a husky/wolf mix, very fast, and I was afraid he might actually catch them.

Cassie, if you get an extra Mango seedling, dmail me and I'll see if I can trade with you. Thanks!

Old VCR tape helps too, it is so light and somewhat reflective and it moves in the slightest breeze. I often tie pieces of it on branches during the late winter when the deer start getting hungry. It only works for a while so you do have to switch your tactics every now and then. Squirrels are smart and can figure things out quickly. Someone recently told me to sprinkle cloves under my tomato plants to keep them away but I have not tried that yet.

Ladies, it will take at least a couple of years longer to get fruit from a seedling mango. I'd recommend if you really want fruit, go invest a few bucks in one that's a decent size. Mine was a 2yr. old, 3ft. tall when I got it and bore 2 years after I planted it.

My variety is 'Carrie' and like Cassie's, gives delicious fruit with no strings. It's another that stays relatively small, maxing out at about 20ft. Real mangoes get up to 80ft tall, so I'm told.

Here's my mango disco . ..

(here i am again lol) dyzzypyxxy i didnt to move the Persian shields yet, but i will definitely use your advice. i have plenty of 3gals - are those big enough?

AND! i am actually writing this with the purpose of asking you about your mango, it looks amazing! tell me, is it really that bad when it comes to recovering from bad winters? i am so nervous about getting one :/ my family in Orlando complain about their blooms freezing (they might be fibbing) im in st cloud so from your experience, is it a bad idea for this area?

sorry about the load of questions :p

You are right Elaine but the shipping on a large tree would be over the top these days. I'll just wait until I get to S. FL again and pick one up.

Good plan, Alice!

Czp, your handle is appropriate to your question. You're at least one climate zone colder than I am, so I really don't know how mango trees do in your area. Here's my experience: The two cold winters we had, 2009-10 and 2010-11 my tree did freeze some blooms, and I definitely had smaller crops of fruit. But I still got fruit. I did try to cover parts of the tree with cloth a couple of cold nights, but it was too hard to get it to stay in place. My tree is pretty big, probably 16ft. tall and wide. So, while your tree is small, you could cover it on cold nights to help keep the blooms from freezing.

What I'd do if I lived there is walk around the neighborhood (and watch when you drive) for mango trees with fruit in the next few weeks. Find out if you can what variety does best in your area. A good nursery (not Lowe's or HD or WalMart . .. . a REAL nursery) should be able to tell you, or ask somebody who had a loaded tree if you get the chance. Mangoes are native to India and SE Asia, so they are pretty tender trees, but there are hybrids that have been bred to stand colder temps better.

Then, when you plant the tree, choose the most sheltered location for it that you can. South side of a house is great. Even the south side of another large tree like an oak will protect it somewhat from cold winds in winter. (but don't plant it too close to an oak, you don't want it to have to compete with oak tree roots).

No question, I would give it a try, but do your homework first, find a good variety and see if you have a warm, sheltered place for it, too. Even if you don't get fruit, mango is a very pretty, easy care tree.

The worst thing about them is trying to protect your wonderful fruit when it starts to ripen. Here's the owl DJ by the mango disco. The colored leaves are new growth, it comes out a sort of pinkish color then turns dark green as it matures.

This message was edited Jun 4, 2012 6:39 PM

Pics of stuff before I left..

Thanks Alice. Ordered 1.