Spring is finally here, my plumerias are gradually awaken one by one after the winter rest. They are getting too tall to remain in pot culture. So I'm finding ways to "shorten" them without sacrifice the future blooms. Let's join in and talk grafting.
Pic. was taken last summer.
Let's Talk Grafting.
you want warm overnight temps and more active growth.
Have you thought about air-layering them?
Jag1224, no I haven't but that's an idea that I can work with.
I have not lost a plant when I air-layered it. Also, there is hardly any interruption of the growing cycle. I have had them bloom while I was air-layering them and then cut them when they developed a root system and they continued to bloom.
It's a great idea. May I ask what medium do you use to wrap at the air-layering sites? And the timing? I have had success with grafting Angel trumpets with spanish moss before. But then I realized how easy it was to root A.T. so I didn't have extensive experience with air-layering technique.
50s seem low to me. i would really wait until the heat ramps up.
so, what are you trying to do exactly. you went from grafting to air-layering.
Mr. D. My main objective is shortening the trees to ease the moving in/out of the makeshift greenhouse. They're getting too tall and are reaching the ceiling.
I have used both coir and Miracle Grow Moisture Control potting soil. I would think you could use any medium that has been dampened. I wrap it with Glad Press'n Seal
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/josegabriele/100_1521.jpg
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/josegabriele/100_1522.jpg
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb132/josegabriele/100_1523.jpg
Those pictures are very helpful, was it last summer? How long does it take to send out roots? And lastly, did the lower portion sprout up new branches after the upper part took off on it own and separated?
Thanks Mr. D. My next question is; with plumerias. Since we usually wait until the cutting healed itself before we pot it up (to avoid too much moisture that may lead to rot). Do we need to wait after the scored section to heal before we apply the coir-based mix?
good question! i thought about that as i was posting the pics. lol i have been either sealing cuts with beeswax or placing them in a humidity chamber to keep the cuts ends from drying out. my thought was to girdle the site and then just wrap with Glad Press'n Seal until callus tissue forms. at that point i'd add the mix. what do you think?
Hah, let's me think about that one a while. :))
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1221414/
you might be able to get roots forming just alone in the humid air trapped by the plastic wrap.
picked up some Glad press'n seal.
Whoa! Keep things in perspective, Mr. D. I'm not in the desert. But I'm in the humid South. Any of your technique maynot apply to my situation?
hi lily. if that is the case then i am the one that needs to air layer in Glad press'n seal. all you should have to do is wrap your girdle site with moss. however, jose has wrapped his in plastic in louisiana and been okay. so, it seems that we are all on the same playing field. wrapping the girdle site almost makes the climate of no importance. you can let your girdle air dry before wrapping it or just cut, air layer and wait for roots. you should even be able to do what i proposed.
Okay, nothing ventured nothing gained. I'll try to do some grafting, some air-layering, will post pics. to share. Maybe next week. Thanks to both for your input.
no problem.
so, they are getting to tall, right? you're cutting off the top parts and grafting them to seedlings?
No, I've was thinking of cut them down, reduce the middle cane, and graft the top to the base?
okay, so some down grafting is in order and then you will just root the mid-branch section OR do some air-layering and let the rooted section bud at top once you cut off the air-layered section. good to have some options and experiment.
i have not been successful at down grafting, yet. =(
I apply the medium right away. Just be sure your medium is not too wet. All you need is for it to be damp.
I might also mention that I use a vegetable peeler to remove the cambium layer.
It will root in two or three months. I usually cut below the roots and the trunk that remains will sprout new branches.
Thank you Jose for your info. When I gegin my project, I'll share more pics. with everyone. I've been toying with the thought, how I'm going to be able to create a clean cut to graft with some of the older canes.
