RicRac not growing

Greensburg, PA

I've had a ric-rac for about 10 years now and it seems to have reached steady state. By that I mean it does not grow more leaves, and the current leaves remain green and do not die. It gets neglected in the winter, due to tight space constraints and dry conditions. However, in the summer it goes outside, gets bright indirect light and regular water all of which should at least trigger some growth, but I don't see any. It's clearly root bound, being in the same pot for so long. It's not really changed in several years.

Any thoughts on getting this guy to start growing again? I don't really want to repot due to space limitations and its reluctance to perform. I fertilize it irregularly the same time I fertilize my rhipsalis which do well. If I repot it into a larger pot, it will have to go into the unlit, cold basement and I fear for its survival. I've not tried foliar feeding, but considering doing that next spring.

tia

Crossposted in Cactus and Succulents

Mountlake Terrace, WA(Zone 8a)

I would suggest a complete fertilizer with micro nutrients or if you are continuously fertilizing try several waterings without and make sure you get drainage to wash salts away.

Greensburg, PA

I always flush all my cactus pots during the summer (those that I don't worry about rot), but still a good idea. I fertilize epis', rhipsalis, and cacti rarely, only a couple of times a year.

Mountlake Terrace, WA(Zone 8a)

I use DynaGro fertilizer which started as a complete fertilizer for hydroponic setups, but is great for feeding just about anyway. I use it weekly at 1/2 strength on my plants, and some the effect is noticeable. My Fockea edulis this year seems to have doubled in diameter, which I can only attribute to using the fertilizer.

DynaGro is weird stuff as it is already very dilute and is in liquid form recommended to be used at low doses.

Greensburg, PA

I'll see if it available locally and check it out. I usually use a very weak solution of Miracle Grow for foliar feeding, somewhere under 10% recommended strength. Here again, I want to be compatible with the rhipsalis, which get most of what they need from the air.

Thanks for the advice!

Fort Wayne, IN

I have been using a 10-10-10 fertilizer. I plan not to feed at all during the winter months and in the spring use a 0-10-10 to promote flowering. That is what Pacific Epiphyllum Growers have in their information packet. Maybe you could try that, I found my 10-10-10 plant food at Home Depot, it is Vigoro all purpose plant food. I will need to look for the
0-10-10 but I'm sure one of the Home stores like Lowes, Home Depot or one of the others will have it. Maybe that will help.

Mountlake Terrace, WA(Zone 8a)

I originally read http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1043557 , but went down to my local hydroponics store to get some Dyna-Gro. Last Sept the Hoya group went a little nuts discussing fertilizers, unless you want to get into Malestrom's diatribes in the Caucidiform forum.

Lexington, KY(Zone 6b)

I've had mine for about 11yrs. and I top dress every year with compost and I use a fertilizer called Superthrive every two weeks, spring to fall, cut back hard in the spring. I get large blooms every year

Greensburg, PA

I've never cut it back, so may give that a try. I did re-pot it a couple weeks ago. Bigger pot and trimmed some of the roots lightly.

Lexington, KY(Zone 6b)

If you end up cutting it back save the cuttings and root the pieces. I give mine to all my friends and family.

Greensburg, PA

Yes, I have a hard time throwing cuttings out as well. However, I don't intend to cut back until the spring.

Marks, MS(Zone 7b)

I have read that if you cut them back, you have to wait longer for flowers because they flower from the older leaves.

Santa Ana, CA(Zone 10b)

My Epis only flower on mature leaves, but at some point those become too old. I think selective prunning might be helpful in maintaining the shape/ size of the plant though.

Pittsburgh, PA

Rhodridgeback,

How exactly do you cut your plants back? Cut every stem back to 2" or so or every other stem?

My ric-rac has never had a flower, it is 10 years old, it looks healthy.

I appreciate your advice. Thanks.

Lexington, KY(Zone 6b)

obliqua, hi. the most important branches to cut back are the old ones,you know the ones that are harder and slightly calcified. Cut back to fresh wood. Next, cut back all the branches that have bloomed that year. I normally cut these back to about half ,sometimes less, you kind of have to look at it and judge the amount. And make sure that you take off the weak winter growth. Hope this works for you. thanks. ridgeback

Pittsburgh, PA

Thank, now I look forward to getting some flowers...I appreciate you sharing your experience growing these plants.
I went to a community college for horticulture and my teacher had this ric-rac cactus, and he had no idea how to grow it. This plant was kept in a greenhouse and never bloomed in five years. I got a piece from him and tried to read articles on growing it, but no one really gives too much info in these articles. So I do appreciate first hand knowledge...

Judy

Lexington, KY(Zone 6b)

I received a small cutting of this cactus about 11 years ago from a amazing lady who owns a a greenhouse in town. She gave me the cutting and has given me lots of great plant advice over the years. Now the plant is now a pretty good size, and blooms almost every year. One thing though, make sure you keep it root bound. Thanks, Carrie

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