Propagation of Old Apple Tree

I'm hoping someone can help me out a bit, at the very least stear me in the right direction because I am quite confused at this point. Here's my conundrum...DBF's property is old, it has a Victorian Era home. It also has an apple tree which he loves...and he's asked me to make new starts from it. I have no idea how old (or young) this tree is. I'm guessing it's pretty old, judging by size and looks. I can snap a pic if that'd help any.

I started to do a bit of research on "apple tree propagation" and just became very confused right off the bat. Every site seems to contradict the last one. One says do it from seed, the next says it won't come true from seed, the next says root a cutting, the next says you need to graft a cutting. So, what say you all who have experience with this?

I have experience with rooting things, not much experience with rooting woody things...but I'm excited to try. I would even love to try grafting if that's what's called for. Whatever it takes here, I reallly want to duplicate this tree and apples...it would be a shame if for some reason they were lost. If nothing else it would be nice to have more of them.

Thanks for any help,
Heather

Ok, I just found the following, which clears up a LOT...more reading to do...


Apple trees can be propagated from softwood cuttings or seed. Trees rooted from stems are clones (asexual propagation). No one can root a branch from a tree that produces sour apples if they want sweet apples! Seedling stock (sexual propagation) will produce offspring that are widely variable in fruit quality and taste. Some will be sweet, some tart, some large and some small. In general, commercially available apples trees are usually bud or cleft grafted to take advantage of a hardy rootstock. Go to my Web site on home propagation techniques at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/landscap/h1257w.htm for more information. You may then want to explore our fruit tree publication at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/hortcrop/h327w.htm. Near the end of the publication is an explanation of the various budding and grafting techniques.

First, you want to decide what size trees you want - dwarfed or standard. And how many. Then, acquire some apple rootstock of the right sort - dwarfed or standard. In early spring, while the tree is still dormant, cut some last-year's twigs and graft them to the rootstock.

This can be tricky for the inexperienced, so it's a good idea to look for a workshop where experienced growers can help you.

LTilton is right on the money. If you want to preserve this exact tree, the only realistic way is to graft onto rootstock from cuttings taken from the tree. Grafting is not hard, but it can take some skill to get it right. So plan on doing multiple grafts. Many apple grafters will take cuttings while dormant and refrigerate them in order to preserve (or increase) the grafting time. Assuming you have multiple years to accomplish this project, no concerns. However, if you must get it done right away due to the tree dying or becoming unavailable for some reason, seek professional help. A local agricultural extension would be a good place to start.

That said, keep in mind that fruit quality depends on environment as well as genetic heritage. A new tree, in a new location may, in fact, taste different from the original tree. Howver, grafting will get you closer to the original than any other method (grafting is cloning).