I'm going to try some cool weather crops for the first time. When I saw the above I originally though it meant as soon as the soil was thawed (I'm in zone 5A).
However, when I read "A year on Henry's farm" a casual comment is made on not working the soil when it's too wet or else the structure would be broken down.
In my neck of the woods the ground is almost always saturated after the spring thaws. So when should I really plant?
What does "As soon as the soil can be worked" mean?
Hi hostamomma...
Here's a thread from 2008 that explains it pretty well...
Kelly
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/806165/
I'm about in your same zone, so I have the same problems with wet spring soils. However, there are always a few times even in March when at least the top few inches of soil dry out enough to be able to plant early, cool weather crops such as lettuce, peas, radishes, and more. The problem is when you don't get these "cool weather" crops in early enough so that they aren't growing to maturity in "hot" weather, which can come as early as May in our zones. Then lettuces bolt, radishes get hot and bitter, peas get tough, etc.
I read recently about this subject, but don't remember where I found it online. Bottom line is take a clump of soil and make a ball. Poke your finger in it and if it stays together, it's too wet and too soon to plant. If it crumbles a little, it's about right for planting. Another thing I heard years ago was if the soil was too cold to work with your bare hands, it was too cold to plant in.
I have raised beds so my soil dries out pretty quickly from the snow/rain. But I think msrobin has the right idea about the ball thing. The only earlly crop I plant are peas anyway (and beets). Depending on weather I usually plant mid April but wait until late May for the rest.
When it is wet, don't work it, I Generally broadcast peas, lettuce, carrots, turnups. root crops and cold weathers.. as soon as the snow melts. 'workable' is a variable term dependin on (as others mentioned) raised beds and intended crop. As a rule, if the top 2-3 inches are not frozen solid, we start the crops. We do warm 1n 18x6 bed with black plastic giving us a 2-3 week head start. It is placed early Jan, keeping it reletivly dry from the melting snow and not a mushy mess in march.
peas and some lettuces can typically be broadcast in the melting snow.
-joe-
We have clay and if you try to work clay when it is too wet, you will lose the soil structure. It will be large clumps that won't break down even when dried out so you get to start all over again building it up. Do you know what zone or what type of soil they were dealing with in "A year on Henry's farm"?
Everyone - thank you for your comments - they are very helpful.
Podster - The farm is in Mid to down state IL so I believe the zone will be 5b. I believe the soil type may be mostly clay and/or loam with a bit of clay in it. Your comments sound on point and it makes sense about breaking down the soil structure.
I'd just like to extend my growing season (beginning and ending) but don't want to torpedo the last two years I've spend building up my beds (manure, leaves, compost etc.). I may need to spread some plastic mulch on a few beds to "help things along".
I don't have much experience with wet soils. My clay soil dries out in about 3 days, and it thaws out off & on all winter. "As soon as the soil can be worked" means either nothing, or January, here. You might want to have a raised bed just for your early spring stuff for drainage and warmth. If you can find a spot that gets full sun spring and part shade summer, that would be even better (like south of a fence or wall, north of a tree that gives light dappled shade).
And I agree with with the warnings above - don't mess with clay soil when it is wet, you will have clods and compacted areas that won't break down until the following winter, maybe longer.
Also, now the experts are saying don't till at all unless you have a good reason - reducing your soil (& earthworms) to finely tilled dust isn't good for the structure either. Tilling in organic matter is a good reason. Tilling up a bed in the fall that has over-wintering insect pests is a good reason. Tilling in the spring because you always till in the spring is not a good reason.
I agree that the saying "plant as soon as the soil can be worked" isn't very helpful. I use a soil thermometer to verify a suitable temperature (spinach, radish, lettuce, onion, and peas are 40°-45°, and cucumbers and snap beans are 60° ) and test for excessive water by squeezing a handful of soil into a ball. If water runs between your fingers it's way too wet, if the soil stays in a ball after you release it it's too wet, if the ball crumbles when you release it it's probably alright. I'd expect that my crude test wouldn't work for all soils, but in my garden it seems okay.
I do agree that frequent, deep, tilling isn't good for soil, especially if the soil is wet. Tilling too close to mud season is a good way to turn the soil to the consistency of concrete. That said, I do till to a depth of about 6" in the fall after the garden has been cleaned, and again just prior to planting in the spring to a depth of about 4".
Subject to change at any moment, it appears that we won't get a big snow melt this spring. This might mean that my garden won't be a bog until the end of May like last year. A Memorial Day planting would be a good thing.
Hmmm... are we getting all your snow this year? We received 11 1/2 inches overnight. That is unheard of here. Traditionally potatoes are planted at Valentines Day. Not this year...
Podster, I usually plant my Leaf Lettuce, Arugula, Spinach and Broccoli from inside that I started 4 weeks ago under lights this weekend. I plant them under small hoops I built over my raised beds. The problem is we have 40 inches of snow from the last week, and my hoops have collapsed. I set my plants outside today because I've been hardening them off, and a big pile of snow falls from the roof right on top of them. I think this 1st planting that I started in Jan ( a few weeks earlier than previous years) is jinks and doomed. You guys in Texas enjoy the snow. I do have to agree with Joe on the black plastic and warming the beds. I have 10 raised beds and they have been covered for 3 weeks now. It keeps the water out and dries and warms them quite a bit.
Hey Podster, we both know that your snow will be gone in a week, or less. Snow in New Hampshire tends to last a bit more. Just how much frost do you have in the ground? I can almost hear your mind working: :Frost?"
LOL ~ no on the ground frost. But no puzzlement here. I live in TX because I know better ~ I grew up in the frozen tundra of MN! I have encountered more than one frost heave in my lifetime.
Podster, my apologies. A Minnesota guy knows frost.
Many years ago my sister suffered a lapse in judgment and moved to Montgomery, Texas. She would often write about planting her garden in March, but seemed reluctant to talk about the pickings in August.
Every part of the country has its ups and downs, except maybe Hawaii. I haven't figured out the downs there.
Is she still in Montgomery?
It took an adjustment for me to "figger" out planting early, harvesting early, laying off during the summer heat and do a second garden in the fall.
I agree every place is different. I have also learned you got to like where you are and I do.
Ouch! Isn't this winter weather amazing! Aren't there also more storms expected? We are due for another bout of it too.
FarmerDill posted yesterday in the Beginner vegetables forum.
Monday, Tuesday maybe more snow? I hope not I'm ready for spring. My problem is should I dig out my hoop houses or not. I have about 32 seedlings that I started on the 13th of January and really need to get them in the garden or transplanted out of the 3" peat pots into a larger container. I have been moving them in and out of the house daily because I planted a 2nd crop on the 3rd of Feb, and they are going from seed starter to 3" peats and will be taking up most of the grow light room. I have 72 plants in that batch. I was hoping to get my pea's planted mid week, but that's been put on hold. I really have the means to get the garden season started but do I really feel tromping around in the snow 28" now or so, for 32 seedlings when I can wait a few weeks and 72 will be ready to go in. What do you fine people feel I should do?
Butch
In a larger container you will have to be extra careful to control the moisture to prevent damping off or rot but would be less maintenance if I follow your options.
I'd opt for babysitting them longer.
"Is she still in Montgomery? "
Podster, unfortunately she died a couple years back, but in her heart she was a Texan and vigorously defended those piney woods against all attacks by misguided Yankees. I was never able to convince her of the error of her ways.
There are those who argue that all the smart farmers left northern New England 200 years ago, and I guess that my sister just followed them. Now, as for me ............
If you ever got this red dirt between your toes, you would understand your sisters' stance. Those of you "left" in New England have my respect for being hardy souls! I do miss the dormant winter season where I could read and rest and shop the seed catalogues and dream of spring. Well, maybe only a little bit!
OUCH! But work with Mother Nature not against her. I'm guessing the plants are? Or aren't? Brrrr....
Didn't have any plants in there yet. But there will be soon. I'll post a pic when I rebuild and plant. Here's my 30'x4' Bed need to clear it for peas, its covered with black plastic and about 3' of snow. That's a 4' fence behind it and you can see my path to the hoop house. The snow makes gardening tough in the spring. We have never had a winter like this in a long time. People were looking at me like I was nuts today, shoveling my garden. Oh well fresh Lettuce in 3 weeks, its worth a little hard work.
shoveling your garden. I laughed out loud.
I have plants that need to go in that hoop house, and carrots and beets to start. I still have another one I have to dig out tommorrow and rebuild. The wheather here on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, is tricky we go straight from winter into summer, I have planted later only to see my spinach bolt and peas dry up. So a little work now will pay off later. Please don't laugh at me.
Oh, I'm laughing because people think I'm nuts, too, for going to so much trouble. It's worth it, though.
That is amazing ~ how deep is the snow? It will be plum soggy when it thaws.
Have you ever considered wintersowing? http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/f/coldsow/all/ It will give your plants the head start they need and you won't have to be struggling with this snow right now.
I know some folks up here plant peas in late fall with great success although I've never tried it; also spinach.
One trick to getting an early planting in is to make raised beds or even ridged rows up higher than the soil between the rows. Do the ridging in the fall before the early spring plant out. The ridges will be warmer and dryer.
How do you handle the venting. I've used a low tunnel before, but later in the spring.
Yay! Fingers crossed for no more heavy snow!
