Should be made in the spring only. Most forums will have a cuttings available posting going on, and cuttings will root well during the summer growing season, so just hang around, drool, and wait till spring, as we are as anxious as you.
Requests for Cuttings
Winter is my time for efforts with propagation. I did ask in the spring and found no takers. Rhips will survive transport without problems as long as they do not hard freeze.
I don't mind sending cuttings - anytime of the year, as long as I'm not sending them out or anywhere that are having hard frost.
Humm, aI thought that cuttings should come during growth time only.
well, i meant orchid cactus. I don't do it for roses and I have some jasmine that will root fine anytime
I have gotten cuttings in winter, they root thought slower than in the warm season.
i send cutting in the mail on monday .so they dont sit around on the weekend.
I have received cuttings basically year round, but I usually like to start them in the fall and let them root through the whole winter. I don't seem to lose as many this way.
Then I stand mistaken. I am having a Altman Rhipsalis rhombea which is getting black mold at its base. I tried to cut back but some are molding too.
Analog, I would let the plant dry out a bit and wipe with alcohol. A handy trick is to buy alcohol prep pads that are sold for diabetics and use them for wiping down plants. From time to time I spray my rhipsalis with alcohol to help maintain sanitation against the bugs. Needless to say, do not spary alcohol in the house or near any flames. Wait for a day above freezing and take the plant outside briefly for a good soaking (alcohol spray). I have never had alcohol damage a rhipsalis but keep in mind that chlorophyll appears to be at least partially soluble in alcohol, so discretion is needed when wiping down. Don't know about efficacy against black mold, never had to deal with it, but alcohol is where I would start.
Thanks Krowten, i did not know that I should do that. I usually let them dry out a day or so but have never wiped one down.
I would think that drying out would stop the mold from growing, but leave the mold plants & spores intact for growth when condition get more moist. Hopefully the alcohol would kill the majority of the mold present. It evaporates so fast that it does not have time to much damage the larger plant. Incidentally, I use the 90% alcohol rather than the more diluted versions. Most drug stores around here now carry the 90% formulation. I have found that alcohol is one of the few things that works against spider mites.
Krowten: I mix alcohol in a spray bottle of water and use for mites and molds. I have found that it damages many of my orchids----almost like burning the leaves. I use hydrogen peroxide the same way. Both do a good job on the problem area but many times they cause additional problems. bob
