This sounds interesting

Jacksonville, FL(Zone 9a)

This "hint" came from a gardening newsletter I get.

Quoting:
For anyone who, like me, winters Hibiscus rosa-sinensis in the garage or house," writes William Scheick, "there's hope in retarding low-light leaf-drop. In the April-June, 2009, issue of HortTechnology three researchers reported the benefit of adding a small amount of table sugar (3%) and a trace of citric acid (5 millimolar) to a standard plant fertilizer solution with an acidic pH of 5. About 60% of hibiscus leaves treated with this solution lasted 24 weeks, in contrast to untreated plants completely defoliating after a mere 12 weeks. The finding here might be applicable to other indoor plants inclined to shed leaves in low-light settings."


Certainly can't hurt to try this one.

Emerald Hills, CA(Zone 9b)

Sounds like a plan Alice. Let us know how it works :-)

Fort Worth, TX(Zone 8a)

Hope this isn't a dumb question but do you spray this on? It says 60% of treated leaves which makes it sound like you use a spray.

Judy

Jacksonville, FL(Zone 9a)

I would assume so, I have no personal experience with it as my hibiscus stay outside. I was just posting the quote I read elsewhere for those who need to bring their plants indoors for the winter.

Ft Lauderdale, FL(Zone 10a)

Interesting. I would assume the results would be the same whether you spray it on or add it to your liquid fertilizer when you water your plants. I would guess the additives are absorbed into the plant either way.

Fort Worth, TX(Zone 8a)

Its certainly worth trying. I have leaf loss even in my GH. Thanks for sharing this info with us.

Judy

Jacksonville, FL(Zone 9a)

Yo are welcome, I thought it is inexpensive and probably pretty harmless to try. A bit of sugar and some Fruit Fresh (citric acid) from the grocery store. But, what is a millimolar? :-)

Disputanta, VA(Zone 7a)

I don't know but will surely find out and try it. Thanks for posting this. I wonder if it'd work on brugs???

East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/millimolar

Jacksonville, FL(Zone 9a)

LOL, you Texans. You probably know that idea came from a Texas newsletter.

Quoting:
(chemistry) a concentration of one one-thousandth of a mole per litre, typically used in reference to the concentration of a chemical compound in an aqueous solution (see Molarity). It is equivalent to one micromol per millilitre or, equivalently, one millimole per litre .


Clear as mud. :-)

East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

exactly, lol. notice I put it out there w/ no comment to let you figure it out, lol.

Jacksonville, FL(Zone 9a)

LOL, we do have lots of moles around here. Makes one wonder........

Ft Lauderdale, FL(Zone 10a)

I looked up millimole units (which is a fraction of a mole) and then starting reading. How much to use depends on the weight of the substance you are adding it to. At that point I started to get "molecular headache" and had to lay down.
I think it would be easier just to pack your bags, move to a frost free zone, and forget about it.

Jacksonville, FL(Zone 9a)

LOL

Dublin, CA(Zone 9a)

Unless I did the math wrong, a 5mM solution works out to approximately a 0.1% solution. So basically just a little pinch--probably no need to be really exact, just make sure not to use too much since I suspect it could act as an herbicide if you get the concentration too high.

East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

...a pinch or a dab or a tad. I believe they're the same, lol. I do think you should follow amore's recommendation and move.

Ft Lauderdale, FL(Zone 10a)

LOL. Maybe just add a smidge. Just add the juice of one citrus and see what happens. Maybe after the hibiscus blooms fall off a fruit will form.

East Texas, United States(Zone 8a)

why would you care if the leaves fall in winter? isn't that natural? or it a matter of having pretty foliage in a greenhouse setting?

Jacksonville, FL(Zone 9a)

The few times I have lost leaves I found they take forever to come back in the spring and they won't bloom until there is plenty of foliage.

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