Hymenocallis seed?

Mesa, AZ(Zone 9b)

I know I need to sow it now but what do I do?!?!

Richland, MI(Zone 5b)

Lynn, I didn't ever grow them from seed, heck, I only have Ismene festalis, a hybrid... I wanted to see some experts chiming in, but, seeing that they are missing in action, I grabbed my courage...

I don't know what kind you have, so I did a general search, and this is what I found:

Propagation (extract from an article by an ALBERTO GROSSI - he seemed to know what he's talking, he's the Italian representative for IBS; if you want I can dmail you details)
Multiplying spider lilies from offsets or seed is easy. Bulb offsets can be detached from the mother-bulb when dormant and potted on. For all species, growing from seed is a good way to produce new plants. Each capsule may contains one or more seeds that ripen two to three
weeks after pollination. They vary in shape and size according to the species, anything from 1–3.5cm in length and they can be ovoid or globular, and pale yellow-green to dull blue-green. They may germinate when still attached to the mother plant. I have just received seeds of
H. cleo and I have noticed that about half have two germination points, with two white radicles. Polyembryony appears to be a frequent
phenomenon with Hymenocallis (Newton 1985). Fresh seed should be sown in a sandy compost and half-covered with grit. Keep them moist and germination will usually happen in a few weeks, although occasionally I have had seeds germinating the following year. After the radicle has extended 2–3 cm it swells to form a little bulb from which roots and leaves develop. In the deciduous species, withering of the leaves indicates that the new bulbs are going to rest. Then they can be treated as mature bulbs.

Plant-of-the-week site talks of one species, Hymenocallis caribeae, and says: "Hymenocallis caribeae are propagated in the fall from the small bulbs that develop at the base of large bulbs. Spider lilies can be grown from seed that is fresh, planted 3 inches deep in potting mix"
(on another site I read that H. caribeae doesn't set seed???!!!)

Thad Howard says (quoted, but using my own words)that the Hymenocallis group is basically divided into two subgroups: one that offsetts easily but seldom seeds, and one that sets seed easily but seldom offsets (this later is represented by Mexican species). He doesn't say, however, how to start the seeds.

The AHS Encyclopedia says for Hymenocallis propagation: "sow seed at 66-75F (to me, this means inside...) as soon as ripe. Remove offsets in spring."

Someone here on DG says about Hymenocallis caroliniana: "I have recently made an important proagation discovery with this lovely, unique and lovely smelling plant. I had a clue several years ago but missed the point entirely. We all know that this plant can be passed on by digging up and dividing the large bulbs that multiply, but recently I discovered another method. Collect the green colored beans that form on the base of the flowers the minute the blooms fade and store them dry, in an open container (like an unsealed envelope) in a DARK place until a white root begins to show on the side of this seed(?). (about 6 weeks) The green colored bean looking dealies can then be planted about an 3/4 inch deep in fertile soil in a place that can receive plenty of water, and they will sprout and green will show above ground in a few weeks. I don't know how long it will take to produce a bulb, but I have successfully raised some 4 inch plants with this method and some of the beans I used were 2 years old and some were from this years blooms. The seeds (?) I had stored in a babyfood jar from 2 years ago in my closet sprouted roots that were almost an inch long and I planted these and they came up as well as some that were 6 weeks old from this years crop. Everyone of them came up with tiny sword shaped leaves, I believe. I will pass on the info about how long it takes to form true bulbs and blooms at a later date."

Mary Gray, in Bulbs of North America, says: "...fleshy green seeds. These seeds often germinate precociously, close to the parent plant. ... Spider lilies produce fleshy green seeds which should be planted immediately in well drained but moist germination medium. I've had seeds of several different species commence germination while sitting on my desk awaiting my attention. The cotlyledonary petiole is the first structure to emerge from the spongy seed coat (many gardeners mistakenly call this a root). This structure swells at its tip and forms the seedling bulb."

And here's the abstract from a scientific article published in the Acta Horticulturae: "The genus Hymenocallis Salisb. is represented in Mexico by 29 species. Some are well adapted to xeric conditions others belong to meso-hydrophytes. The first group is characterized by caduceus leaves and the second is perennifolious. The seeds of all tested species or accessions germinated shortly after harvest (in a few days and up to in 2-6 weeks) during storage in paper bags. Seed number per infrutescence varied with species or accession. The species and accessions were found to present two modes of germination. The first, found in the xeric group (caduceus leaves) gave between one to many embryonic roots, each having the capacity to terminate with a bulbil. This bulbil was forced by contractile roots into deeper soil layers and entered a deep dormancy period. Both attributes enabled such bulbil to survive the dry season. Such bulbils are named survival bulbils. In the next rainy season they formed feeder roots and primary leaves. The number of survival bulbils formed per seed varied from 1 to 5. Seeds of meso-hydrophytes gave only one embryonic root terminated with a leafy and rooted bulbil of continuous growth. Seeds of the first group gave, generally, two plants per one seed or more; those of the second group gave only one plant. Plants of the second group grew faster, presenting uninterrupted growth. Attributes of these two groups of germination variants and growth may be of interest to horticulturists and to consumers. "

I can go on, if needed, with other findings. Just LMK...

What species do you have seeds for? How many (as in, do you have several to allow you to experiment with different conditions?) do you have?

If you have the time, can you please keep me updated with your experiment? I just had last week my first flowers on Ismene festalis, I know it's a hybrid, but it looks that some bees(?) did their thing, and I can see a swollen ovary. Who knows, it may set seed, or abort? It's absolutely clear to me, that, if they do, I will not get the same thing, but it would be fun, none-the-less.

Hope my rambling and mumbling helps you a bit.
Alexandra

Thumbnail by goofybulb
Mesa, AZ(Zone 9b)

Oh, that's wonderful! Thank you, thank you, thankyou.

I believe the one that gave me my 'beans' is Hymenocallis liriosme. I have several species growing and have had this one for many years now and these are my first so clearly setting seed is not a frequent thing.

I had in fact set them on top of the soil in a nearby shady pot so they would probably have sat there and rooted all by their little selves...I think I'll leave them there until they sprout, I'll pot them afterwards. I'll take pics!!

Thanks for all the work, that was so helpful. Like you I thought for sure someone would come along who knew but I think most folks are busy this time of year.

Richland, MI(Zone 5b)

Oh, yeah! Please, pics and updates! I'm rooting here for your beanie-seeds!

Mesa, AZ(Zone 9b)

lol

Tolleson, AZ(Zone 9a)

Not sure how I missed this post but looks like you got all the info you need! Yes please post baby bean seed pictures :o)

This message was edited Aug 20, 2009 8:15 PM

Mesa, AZ(Zone 9b)

My beans started disappearing.....suspect: 4 legged bandit disguised as herd dog disguised as lizard hunter. Started out with 5, then had 4, then 3....found one, now have 4 again lol so I went ahead and put them in the soil so they don't all disappear. Keeping fingers crossed!

Hey Marie, did your variegated hymenocallis come back this year? Mine didn't :(

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