Propagation: What's your method? Veggie seeds from germ to ground......, 1 by

wrote:
Junebugged,
From my own experience, I think the near perfect mix is what I stated above---1 part peatmoss, 1 part perlite. It has excellent drainage due to the perlite and moisture-holding ability due to the peatmoss---perfecto.

I prefer the perlite since the peatmoss tend to stay moist and perlite fluffs it up and makes it pourus. Plant roots thrive in this light mix with excellent drainage. Year ago, that is the mix plants that I ordered mailorder were potted in it. The mix does not have any plant nutrient so that has to be added. If desired, the mix can be used with potting soil to make it lighter.

The mix should be moistened before use due the peatmoss which is difficult to wet evenly in a container.

I don't care so much for vermiculite for it tends to flatten out. I used it in a mix with peatmoss to root cuttings.

When the soil in a potted plant becomes too dry,the soil will shrink from the walls inside the pot. When watered only from the top, the water runs down the sides on the inside of the pot and leaves most of the rootball without moisture. I don't know how many times I have heard "why is my plant limp, I watered it"

To water correctly, place the pot in a pan of water. Pour a bit of water on the soil to begin the syphoning action. The water will be drawn up to wet the whole root ball. When the pot feels heavy, the plant is well watered.

Below is a turkey baster which is great to gently water tiny seedlings / seeds.
To plant seeds in a seeding tray, make a furrow the depth recommended for the seeds you are going to sow. Pour the seeds thinly along the furrow, then with you fingers gently close the furrow from the 2 sides so the seeds are in contact with the soil.

When it states that some seeds need light to germinate it is taken out of contex. It really means do not cover seeds---surface sow . It is in reference to small and tiny seeds that could never make it up to the surface if covered.

While I am at it, below it a gallon milk container I save up to use over my tomato plants to protect against light frost and acclimate them. They get diffused sunlight. Cut off the bottom. The open end is towards the east for morning sun. The entrance can be cut any size, or cut on 3 size to make a door. The jug is held in place with a dowel. Bury the bottom a bit.

1] turkey baster
2] tomato cover
3] plastic bin to acclimate plants before planting out. Placed on the east side of my garage. A cover is kept handy if needed. Drainage holes are made on the bottom.
4] My handmade coldframe that I couldn't garden without. It is against my fence, which holds the shade cloth frame open. I used to sow perennials in late summer and they were planted in the coldframe for the winter. By the following March, they were husky and some bloomed after they were planted in their permanent home. It also tested them for hardiness.