Trees, Shrubs and Conifers: Ginkgo 'Spring Grove', 1 by conifers

conifers wrote:
You'll need to graft to get a "duplicate" of the Ginkgo you're trying to propagate as rootings, which won't ever work. Grafting is it. You'll of course need Ginkgo seedlings and wood that has at least a heel of hardwood. No semi-hard, no softwood; You're grafting hardwood to hardwood. If you don't have a greenhouse and want to graft them in summer, do it starting the middle of July through the middle to late of August of each year. After the graft 'carpentry' has become completed (no wax is needed for summer grafting) - simply bag the entire thing, pot and plant in a white garbage bag and place them under flourescent lighting and they should make up in about 10 days or 2 weeks or a bit more. 10 days is right about on the money though. Also, I need to mention that the seedling you'll leave most of the leaves on, however, on your "cutting" which is actually called a scion, take some scissors and cut every leaf off to leave only the petiole on your scion. The petiole left should be about an inch long or so. You'll know if the graft took when the petiole turn black and after it falls off. At this point a "new" bud has emerged from under that petiole (I'll post a photo of a completed summer deciduous graft). If the petiole doesn't turn black and fall off but rather the scion turns black either at the graft union or anywhere else along the bark or blackens around the petioles - the graft has not been successful:)

If you know nothing of grafting - heres a link for you - even though conifers are being grafted, follow the same procedure.

If you have a greenhouse that can be kept cool in the summer (mine I cannot) - (below 80 degrees) - all the better yet. The plants still need to be bagged however. If you graft in winter then the process is a bit different. Everything is the same technically. The seedlings are first brought in and you wait until the plant breaks bud (not fully so all the leaves are exposed) but when the leaves are just beginning to unfold - that's when you NEED to do the carpentry. If you have a block of Ginkgo seedlings - when 2/3 show bud break, GRAFT ALL OF THEM including those that aren't showing signs of life yet. Also you'll need to coat the budding strip with grafting wax, however this time, you do not bag them! The attached scion will show signs of growth (if successful) months after. Also bottom heat should be used for winter but not for summer! Very important.

Here's a photo of a summer Maple Graft (note the buds are present and have emerged from under the petiole - which has fallen off just to expose the buds which will break next spring.

Also, I forgot to mention - keep the seedlings almost bone dry for the summer grafting and also keep them almost bone dry once again for the following 24 days after. 'Just enough water to keep them alive'. Then, you can water the heck out of them for the rest of the year.

Also the link:
http://www.coenosium.com/text399/spring,1.htm
Take care - a lot of information and good luck!

Dax