Propagation: 2015 Seed Starting, Part 5, 1 by warriorswisdomkathy

warriorswisdomkathy wrote:
Jeeze....I had been typing answers for people for 1/2 hr. Then I was dumb enough to click on a pix and back. POOF all gone..darn!!!!!! LOL.. Ok, I'll start over.

BigZig....Get your plants out from under the dome when they start beefing up, definitely when they reach the top of the dome. I try to acclimate them a bit (lid off for a few hrs so they can get used to the open air for a day or so (recover in an hr or two). When I move to open air trays is when I begin to actually water the whole pot but still mist several times a day to keep the humidity up. I also pinch plants when they get too tall. But then it depends on whether they are a clumpers or grow from the center. If grown from the center they can be trimmed but wait til they have at least 2 sets of true leaves before you do so. Ie. , the ones in pix 1, many are types of babies that can get a haircut. Pix 2 is of Digitalis on the left which grow from the crown. The plant on the right is Centranthus (single stem) and can be pinched in the center to bulk it up ( which causes branching). Does that help? I'm thinking you are going to have a time trying to keep your Nasturium going til May when you can plant it out in the garden, but look at it as a leaning lesson.. Annuals usually get started 4-6 wks before last frost, depends on how fast they grow. Some annuals such as yours, may only need 2-3 weeks before last frost, vines such as sweet peas only a week before going out. But there are other annuals that need to be started 8-12 weeks before last frost ie, : Tomatoes, Nicotiana, Salvia Blue Bedder and Pansies to mention a few. If in doubt ask, someone here will be happy to help with ideas.... And you can trim those damaged leaves from your plants, just keep that center stalk going, most of the damaged leaves are the first set and not true leaves, carefully clip close to the stem.

Juhur,...hmm. got any more seed? lol! Is it going to be as big of a bloom as the Lord Baltimore (10-12") and the deep dark red. Looks like trade time....lol. And your looks wonderful! Mine are just now sprouting.

BetNC...I have 2 shelves that are 12", I hang my light from chains or hooks so they can be adjusted up or down to fit my needs. Also not a big deal if plants actually begin to touch the lights as they are not strong enough to burn the babies. But keeping them close helps to keep growth more compact as they are not stretching to get to the light. Again using haircuts when needed. I have several shelves that are 14" or more also. Again using haircuts when necessary too...lol.

Blomma....Love Lord Baltimore, such big flowers and tall plant... It's been the only one I have yet to obtain seed for that I definitely want. Many are new to me also, especially the coccineous (hardy to z6), which can grow to 10 ft. Many have been breed over the past 10 -15 years and there are soo many new ones now, but most of the new ones are more of a bush than the tall moscheutos varieties. BetNC....most are about 4ft ht. range and up.

Hope this helps with a few tips for newbies....keep the questions coming, someone should have an answer....Many here are well seasoned gardeners...lol. (Nope, not salt and pepper but extensive knowledge from trials and tribulations...the learning curve. LOL But it's how we all get there, kudos for even trying to grow things from seed or even having a garden You will get better at it the longer you do it, I promise. And I never use heat mats so save yourself the money they usually aren't needed.