Tropicals & Tender Perennials: HOW TO CUT BRUGS TO GET CUTTINGS, 3 by Gitagal

Gitagal wrote:
Burgh--

If I may add this lengthy "How To"--it will explain everything.
I wrote this several years ago--and it has helped a lot of newbies
deal with all kinds of brug questions.

My favorite is Dr. Seuss. I am attaching some pictures.
It is an amazing bloomer and the evening scent is heavenly.
I will be taking cuttings of it very soon. I want it to finish its October
glorious bloom-flush. October is always the best! Cooler weather--i suppose.

I can mail you some cuttings--if you are interested. Just for postage....;o)
They root easily right into a pot of soil. D-mail me!

I also have a "Maya" brug--which has variegated leaves and the blooms are
milk-white and fade in a pale, pale apricot. I cut it back today.
It is still fairly small--so I do not have a lot of cuttings from this one.
LMK---asap.

Please print it out the below Primer to use as reference.
There IS a bit to know about growing brugs...but they are tough.
Real survivors.

1&2--Dr. Seuss end of September.
3&4--from 2009. The "Maya" brug--it grew extremely big that year. Not normal...


Gita
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Re Brugmansias-----(“Brugs” for short)...
Spring, Fall and Winter care….by Gita

I plant my Brugs Pot-in-Pot...By that I mean---get a black, or other cheap, plastic3-4gal. pot and cut 4-5-- 1" holes around the lower half of the pot (for the roots to grow out of--if they need to) and then sink THIS pot 2/3's of the way into a much bigger Patio pot, or in a flower bed--leaving the rest of the smaller pot sticking out above the soil level.

This provides the Brugs with the cooler temps the roots like---keeps them from drying out as quickly--and also keeps them from blowing over in windy storms. Still--I have had even the bigger pots of Brugs blow over if they were Pot-in-Pot above ground---like on a patio. Their leaves are very large and act as “parachutes”...BAM! Over they go!!!!
I put 2-3 bricks on top of the pot to try to counteract this...Works sometimes???? Sometimes NOT!

When it comes time to bring your Brugs in for the winter--lift the smaller pot out of the big pots--or the flowerbed-- YES! You will have to sever the roots that grew out those holes and trim off any remaining roots sticking out— NO HARM DONE!
Put a plastic bag around that pot for the winter--to keep the exposed roots from drying out--and haul the whole thing into your basement. Light is not necessary—but OK.
Unheated garages are not the greatest--unless you can run a small heater in there--just to keep the temps above freezing...Water just a tiny bit during this dormancy period.
IF your Brug has grown all wide and big during the Summer--you will have to prune it back--just try not to prune below the first "Y" of the stem...Brugs HAVE TO "Y" before they can bloom! Simple as that! A “Y” is where the stem splits in two—or “Y”,s.
You can also remove most of the leaves before bringing the plants in,
as they will fall off anyway. Leave the leaves on the stem-tips be!

Rooting cuttings taken from above the "Y" will guarantee sooner bloom the following year. Stem cuttings taken from below the 1st "Y" root just as well--but you will now have to wait until that stem cutting grows tall and “Y"s on it's own before expecting any blooms from your new Brug. Sometimes this won't be before October.

The trimmed stems can be cut up in 6"-7" pieces and rooted--right into a 5"-6"pot of fresh potting mix. You can use Rooting Hormone on the ends if you like...
Shove the cutting all the way to the bottom of the pot. Keep it barely moist for now.

I have found that stem cuttings root so much more easily--compared to tip cuttings.
The soft, new growths just do not root all that well. I have not had much luck.
In a matter of weeks--do the gentle tug test...There WILL be resistance...That means it has started to root in. Celebrate!

When new leaf-growth nubs start to appear--you will need to water a bit more regularly...Keep it just moist, though until leaves appear. Watch for wilting!
Let the plant tell you when...:o) Also a weak fertilizer might help here at this point...like--1/2 strength MG. The 7 drops to a quart kind--in the green bottle--for Houseplants...

In the SPRING--
When I bring my Brugs out from their dormancy --I keep them in shade for about a week...then in filtered light for a week--and then in the bright light they will be living in...By now--most of them are back to normal and growing already.
Usually--they don't even "blink"...just turn all green and march on...

About every 2-3 years--you will need to root-prune the root ball. Trust me--It will NOT hurt the plant!!!! Brugs are nearly indestructible!

To root-prune--pull out the Brug from the pot it has been growing in--get an old, sharp, kitchen knife---and just slice away. Cut off the outer part (rind) of the root ball--maybe 1"-2". Don't be shy! It won't hurt the Brug..
Cut off the same amount from the bottom of the root ball. Doing this will be VERY invigorating to the plant!
Re-pot in the same “holey” pot--adding fresh soil mix, with maybe some Osmacote
(slow release) type of a fertilizer mixed in, and fill back around the now smaller root-ball with the soil mix –do the bottom first--- then the edges and a top-dressing as well.
Water in well.
NOW-- You are set for a whole new Season...Not so hard!!!!
***Brugmansias like a bright, sunny spot, but need a bit of protection from the searing, afternoon sun.

Hope this helps all of you “newbie” Brug-growers. These plants are tough!
Feed them weekly and keep them watered. In hot weather—every day!
Literally—sometimes 2 gallons a day! If they wilt—they will come right back.
Later in the season—yellowing leaves are of no concern. This happens….
Just remove them.
***NOTE***Brugmansias are toxic if ingested!!!! Be safe!
Wash your hands after working with them!

The only thing you will need to look out for is Mites on the leaves.
This could happen overnight. Leaves will look mottled. A sure sign you have them.
Spray the whole plant with “Neem” or other insecticide that lists Mites, especially the undersides of the leaves and the new growth. Repeat as needed—every 2 weeks.
You can also use Systemic Granules (Espoma makes it), applied to the soil and watered in, which should help. Systemics are absorbed into the plants “system”, making all the juices toxic to sucking insects. It also kills any bugs that have crawled into the pot.
I would suggest you print this out and save it...for future reference.

Gita